I installed the car myself. How to level the washing machine. Technical characteristics of portable RCDs

The automatic washing machine (CMA) belongs to the category of equipment that is not enough to buy and bring to the house. In order for the device to work, it must still be installed correctly. Usually, the installation is carried out by service specialists. But if the manufacturer does not prohibit the buyer from installing the AGR on their own, threatening to deprive of warranty service, then you can do without the help of masters. Let's figure out how to connect the washing machine correctly.

How to install a washing machine with your own hands?

Unlike their predecessors - machines, in which water was poured and drained manually, the machines are connected not only to the mains. You also need to know how to connect the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system. Let's consider each stage in detail.

Inspection

Most often, stores independently deliver the sold washing machines to their homes - this technique is cumbersome, special, so the seller, by providing such a service, makes life easier for his customers. Open the packaging before accepting the goods and signing the receipt. Or even offer to do it yourself. Inspection procedure:

• Examine the machine carefully - there should be no dents or scratches on the body.
• Shake the machine lightly from side to side - there should be no knocks or sounds.

During transportation, the device could be damaged - but you should not put up with this, demand to replace the damaged model.

External damage spoils not only the external appearance - during the impact, internal parts could be damaged. Moreover, this may not appear immediately, but over time. You will have to take the device for repair under warranty - why do you need extra problems?

Such situations rarely happen - usually cars are delivered intact. If the condition is normal - sign and send delivery workers. If you decide to do the installation yourself, start preparing.

Removing transport parts

For safe transportation, special fasteners are attached to the washing machine. These are usually all sorts of bars, bolts and brackets - they are needed to fix the tank. They must be removed. If the tank vibrates during transport, it can damage nearby elements. If the fasteners are not removed, the tank will not rotate. Imagine what happens if you turn on the AGR to the network, the engine starts working, and the tank is static - a breakdown is extremely likely. To do everything right, read the manufacturer's instructions - installation instructions must be attached to the equipment. Also read our article on shipping bolts.

Where to put it?

Regardless of who is installing the washing machine, it is necessary to determine in advance the place - so that the SMA fits there. Often the model is selected precisely taking into account the availability of free space. If the area is limited, you need to take measurements and, based on them, buy the modification that will fit in the designated place: this is especially important when buying built-in appliances. Well, if there is no shortage of free space in your home, take any option - you can focus on the more important criteria for you. Some appreciate the design, others - the presence of modes, spaciousness, etc.

Typically, SMA is installed where there is a convenient approach to water supply and sewerage. They are placed more often in bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, less often in corridors or closets.

Level setting

The device must stand perfectly level, the level of noise and vibration during its operation depends on this. When skewed, vibrations will increase, especially in the spin mode. To keep the equipment on a perfectly flat horizontal surface, use a building level. To put the machine straight, adjust the height of its legs. Each support is fixed at the desired height with the help of locknuts - so that they do not unwind and do not have to level them again.

How to connect to the network correctly?

The washing machine is connected to the mains in two ways:

• directly into an outlet;
• through an extension cord - this method is not recommended as it reduces the safety of use.

An ordinary socket is not suitable - only with a grounding contact and with protection against water. Exceptional electrical safety must be ensured. Electricity and water are dangerous tandem that can cause serious electric shock.

According to safety precautions, the CMA is connected to a separate outlet. Modern washing machines are usually equipped with current protection and grounding. But extra safety net will not hurt.

It happens that an ungrounded device outputs voltage to the case, then machine shocks... To connect the device, it is recommended to use an RCD - a residual current device.

How to connect the SMA to water yourself?

If the apartment already had an SMA, then there are inserts in the right places, it remains only to connect the hoses to the corresponding pipes. They are included with any machine. What else needs to be done is to put a corrugated hose in the sewer tee.

What water should you connect to?

There are models in which you can connect not only cold, but also hot water. Experts are sure that there are few benefits from this. Every SMA has a heating element that heats water - so why duplicate the function? Connecting a hot water pipe has serious disadvantages:

• Hot water is dirtier than cold water. You will need to clean the filter frequently. Often this work has to be entrusted to the master.
• She has a higher level of rigidity. To wash things, you will have to spend more washing powder.

How to connect the water yourself?

When there are no prepared pipe bends, serious work lies ahead. It is necessary to make taps, install bends, and only then screw on the hoses. If only for cold water - everything is set in the singular. It happens that the length of the inlet hose is not enough, then:

• buy another, longer;
• build up short.

For installation work, you will need to stock up on:

• tee;
• adapter - between threads ½ and ¾;
• valve;
• pTFE sealing tape.

The pipe is cut. A tee is inserted into it. Then a hose is connected to the valve - through an adapter. Do not think that you can do without a valve - it will allow you to disconnect the device without blocking the water in the water supply. And keep in mind, it is better to open the valve during washing - this will prevent leaks.

Before making a branch, find out what material the pipes are made of. For iron, you need welding, for plastic - a soldering iron. No welding, no soldering iron? Then buy a special branch sleeve. Usually they take 15 mm or a little more - they have different sizes. The installation scheme is quite simple, there are enough elementary skills in handling the tool to cope with the connection yourself.

In order for the dirty water to drain automatically, it is necessary to connect the washing machine to the sewer. What do you need to install a drain? Stock up on all the ingredients you need:

• tee - 5 cm;
• bend - d 5 cm, 40 cm long;
• connecting sleeve;
• rubber seal;
• clamp;
• air valve 5 cm.

The main thing is to ensure the correct bend of the hose - the distance from its end to the floor surface should be 50 cm or more. If you do not want to mess with the bend, arrange a stationary drain. To do this, you need an additional siphon - it is mounted, and then the drain hose is attached. The main thing is to ensure the reliability of the fastening in order to avoid leaks. Next, the drain is connected to a cast iron pipe.

Testing

The last stage is to check the system performance. Procedure:

• Make sure the drum is rotating - it should be stationary.
• Make sure there are no leaks - if the hoses are connected correctly, there will be no leaks.
• Listen - you shouldn't hear any incomprehensible sounds.
• Check the spin and drain function.

Useful video:

If you try, you can install the CMA yourself. By performing all the steps correctly, you will not only ensure the correct connection and uninterrupted operation of the device, but also gain useful installation skills that will most likely be useful to you more than once.

Instructions

You should be aware that the washing machine must be installed on a solid, level surface, such as a tiled floor in a bathroom or kitchen. If the machine is placed on a wooden floor that bends under its weight, it will vibrate strongly and eventually the machine will be damaged.

Most washing machines have adjustable feet, which are located at each of the four corners on the bottom of the machine. Each leg is a screw connection with a plastic or rubber support. By rotating the support clockwise, you will achieve a decrease in the height of the leg, rotating the support in the opposite direction will increase the height of the leg.

Put on the washing car to the place where it will be installed, and using the liquid level, determine the degree of inclination of the machine to one side or the other. Rotating the feet of the machine, adjust its position vertically and horizontally so that the level in any plane is zero. In some cases, the screw feet rotate too hard and an open-end wrench must be used to adjust them.

The weight of any washing machine is large enough and it is best to involve an assistant in order to level it up. While one person will hold car tilted, the second will adjust the height of the legs. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room where the machine is located allows free access to all four legs, the work can be done alone.

note

If the machine needs to be installed urgently and there is no liquid level at hand, you can use a smartphone with an accelerometer as a last resort. Install in the gadget one of the many applications that perform level functions that exist today for all popular platforms (iOS, Android, Symbian, Windows mobile). Launch the app and use the device as a level.

Helpful advice

Use only a high-quality liquid level in your work, at least 300-400 mm long. This way you can set the washing machine as accurately as possible. Water or laser levels are not suitable for installing the washing machine.

Large household appliances stores offer packages of related services, including the installation of purchased washing machines. Such services are relatively inexpensive, although many prefer to save on them by installing the equipment on their own.

Instructions

When purchasing a washing machine, you must take into account its size and installation location: the machine should not come into contact with walls and furniture. If the unit is placed close to walls, there is not enough room to route cords and hoses.

The floor must be even and hard (preferably concrete or tiles), if necessary, the evenness of the machine is regulated by the feet in level. These measures completely eliminate vibration and noise of the device during spinning.

Pay attention to the drain hose, the length of which should not exceed 1.5-2 meters. A longer hose will reduce the rate at which the water is drained and, over time, dirt will accumulate in it and will develop an unpleasant odor. Also, the hose should be accessible for cleaning, but children and animals should not be allowed to it to avoid breakage and subsequent flooding.

Consider the location of the tap and water inlet hose. A 1-1.5 meter hose is usually supplied with the washing machine. The inlet hose can be of any length, but you do not need to increase it yourself (it loses reliability over time), it is better to buy a new one of the appropriate size.

Install the drain hose correctly in the sink pipe or siphon, which should be at least 50 cm from the floor. If you plan to install the machine so that water from it flows directly into the drain, bath or sink, the hose must be hung on a hook. The height from the drain hole to the end of the hose must also be at least 50 cm. The hose must not be immersed in water.

The connection to the water supply is made in various ways: using a mortise clamp to the water supply pipe, to the mixer in the bathroom or to the toilet cistern. Faucets must be made of quality materials to avoid water breakthrough if they break.

Connection to the mains power supply requires compliance with safety regulations. Do not plug the washing machine into a regular outlet. Use surge protectors.

Since the machine is connected to the water supply, it must be grounded or neutralized. There are two connection options. The first - if available, you can connect to it. The second is the connection to the electrical panel in the corridor. The connection and laying of the cable to the entry point must be carried out by a specialist.

note

Hoses should not have kinks, kinks, and also do not allow furniture to be installed on the hose.

Helpful advice

The main rule: when installing, connecting and preparing the washing machine for work, you must study the operating instructions.

You can significantly save on connecting a built-in one if you install it yourself. However, before proceeding, you should carefully study the instructions that are usually attached to such a technique.

Built-in washing machines save space. Placed in a kitchen cabinet, they do not attract attention, while successfully coping with functional tasks.

Installation and connection methods

First, the machine is installed in a cabinet or niche. The main condition for correct placement is a flat floor surface, this is necessary for the smooth operation of the machine. Next, you need to connect the machine to the water supply. It's good if the communications are located at the end of the washing machine, and not behind it, otherwise it will be difficult to connect.

It is possible to connect to the water supply in three ways:

Using a sleeve that fits over the water pipe;
- connection to the mixer through the tap tee;
- using a pipe fitting.

Crimp coupling

Connection using a crimp sleeve, which consists of two halves, tightened with screws, is not difficult. It is necessary to purchase a sleeve that crimps a cold water pipe. Then the coupling is firmly fixed with screws, after which, after blocking the water, the drill makes a hole through the coupling in the pipe.

Faucet tee

This connection is more suitable for machines located next to the mixer. A tee tap is inserted into the cut of the flexible hose, which will cut off the water to the washing machine without affecting the operation of the mixer. It is better to seal the junction of the tap with the pipe with a special tape.

Tee fitting

Connection by means of a fitting is suitable for multilayer pipes. In this case, the pipe is cut at a suitable place, a fitting equipped with a ball valve outlet is inserted into the cut. The delivery set of the fitting also includes means for sealing the connection.

Sewer connection

To connect the drain of water from the washing machine to the sewer, you should purchase a siphon, which is a plastic elbow with a branch for the machine, on which a hose is put. At the same time, it is important to position the outlet above the curved knee of the siphon in order to maintain connection with the atmosphere, otherwise the washing machine will pump and drain water at the same time.

After finishing work it is enough to install the hinged door on the cabinet behind which the machine is installed, after which it can be ready for use.

Sources:

• Installation and connection of the built-in washing machine in 2018

The washing machine must be connected to three networks at once: water supply, sewerage and electricity. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a place for installation so that all three systems are located side by side or it is possible to bring them there. Bath, toilet and kitchen are considered optimal for installing a washing machine - they have all the necessary communications. Most often, they require a little work, but connecting the washing machine is not very difficult. The connection process itself is simple, you don't need to do anything super complicated, if you have "straight lines" you can do everything yourself.

Accommodation options

• restroom;
• bathroom or combined bathroom;
• kitchen;
• the corridor.

The most problematic option is the corridor. Usually, the corridor does not have the required communications - no sewage, no water. You will have to "pull" them to the installation site, which is not easy at all. But sometimes this is the only option. In the photo below, there are several interesting solutions to how you can put a typewriter in the corridor.

In the photo - the option of installing a washing machine in a narrow corridor To do something similar to a portal is also a way out

The toilet has all communications, but in typical high-rise buildings the dimensions of this room are such that it is sometimes difficult to turn around there - there is absolutely no place at all. In this case, place washing machines over the toilet. To do this, make a shelf so that sitting on the toilet does not touch it with your head. It is clear that it must be very strong and reliable, and the machine must have very good shock absorbers. In addition, they must be positioned perfectly, otherwise they may "skip" during the spin cycle. In general, with this method of installing the washing machine, it will not hurt to make several slats that will prevent it from falling off the shelf.

The shelf is solid and reliable, but slippery - a rubber mat is needed under the legs for shock absorption

In the bathroom and the combined bathroom, there is usually not very much space either, but still more than in the toilet. There is a choice. If there is space, you can put a washing machine next to the sink. From above, you can install a tabletop, which will be a logical conclusion, and also solve the problem of water ingress on the case. To make everything look organic, you need to choose a machine of such a height that it fits into the size, and the sink itself is better than a square one - then they will become wall to wall. If there is not enough space, you can push at least part of the body under the sink.

There is a more compact way - put the washing machine under the sink. Only the sink needs a special shape - so that the siphon is installed at the back.

The next option for installing a washing machine in the bathroom is to the side of the bathtub, between its side and the wall. Today, the size of the cases can be narrow, so this is a reality.

Just keep in mind, installing such equipment in bathrooms or a combined bathroom is not the best idea. Due to the high humidity, the case begins to rust quickly (tested on our own experience). However, there is usually not very much space, although in principle you can put the car under the sink or hang shelves over it. In general, it's up to you.

Another popular place to install a washing machine is in the kitchen. It is embedded in. Sometimes they close them with doors, sometimes they don't. This is at the discretion of the owners. Several interesting photos are in the gallery.

Doors with a cutout for the "porthole"

Removing the shipping bolts

Before connecting the washing machine, you must unpack it and remove the mounting bolts, put plugs in their place.

This procedure is required immediately after unpacking. Leaving the bolts on and turning on the machine will break it down. And this is not a warranty case. The number of bolts from different manufacturers is different, but the scheme for their installation is in the operating instructions, and they are visible on the back wall. Just take a screwdriver and unscrew it, close the opened hole with a plug.

Water connection

First, about what kind of water the washing machine is connected to. Generally - to the cold. The water is then heated by heating elements as required. Some owners connect to hot water in order to save money. This way, washing less energy is consumed. But the savings are doubtful - more hot water goes away. If a meter is installed on the hot water supply, it is cheaper to pay for electricity than for hot water. It is also worth considering that connecting the washing machine to hot water is not very good in relation to linen: proteins curl up from temperature and then do not wash well.

This was about ordinary washing machines, but there are models that are connected to both hot water and cold water. They have not one water inlet on the back wall, but two. They are very rare in our country - there is too little demand, and the prices for such equipment are much higher.

Now about the connection itself. The washing machine comes with a rubber hose, which you need to connect the washing machine to water. Its length is 70-80 cm, which is not always enough. If necessary, in shops selling plumbing, you can buy a longer one (3 meters is not the limit, it seems).

This hose is screwed onto the corresponding outlet on the rear wall. There should be a rubber gasket, so there is no need to rewind. Tighten the union nut of the hose (plastic) by hand, if you use wrenches, then just tighten it by half a turn. Not more.

The other end of the hose must be connected to the plumbing system. If you have a free outlet somewhere that ends with a tap - great, if not, you need to make a tie-in.

If there is a free drainage of water, it is very simple to connect the washing machine to the water supply system - put a filter, to it - a hose. All

The easiest way is with plastic, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes - they bought a tee (with one transition to the metal), soldered / installed. If the water supply is divorced with a metal pipe, you will have to embed the tee by welding.

In any case, a tap is placed after the tee. Simpler and cheaper - ball. When installing it, you can wind linseed tow on the thread and grease it with paste.

After the tee, put a ball valve, connect the hose to it

There are also tees with taps for connecting washing machines and other household appliances. The same ball valve is installed in one of the branches, but everything is done in one body. It looks more compact, but if the crane malfunctions, you will have to change the entire tee, but it costs decently.

Sometimes it is advised to put a filter before the tap. Of course, it will not be superfluous, but if there is a filter at the entrance to an apartment or house, then there is no urgent need for it.

Where to put the drain hose

If there is a sink or sink siphon nearby, there is no problem. You don't even have to redo the sewer. It will be necessary to buy a special siphon with a branch for connecting washing machines and other household appliances and install it instead of the old one.

Another option is to connect the washing machine to the sewer directly. To do this, you can:

All these methods require reworking the pipeline, but the connection will be capital. There is one point: the diameter of the drain hose is much smaller than the size of the sewer gadflies. To ensure tightness and ensure odorlessness, special rubber cuffs are inserted into the outlets. A hose is simply stuck in them. The elastic edge of the cuff wraps around the cuff, the connection is ready.

There are also temporary connection options. The drain hose is simply lowered into the bathroom, toilet or sink. This method is, of course, very simple, but not the best - the hose may fall, you may forget to put it back in place after turning on the machine, etc. Then the water is drained directly onto the floor, and removing the flood is not very pleasant, and even the neighbors below (if any) will definitely not be happy.

Putting a hose down the toilet is easy, but not reliable

With any method of connecting the drain hose from the machine to the sewer, you must ensure that it does not bend and does not fit in loops. The corrugated drain hose is prone to blockages, therefore it is necessary to observe the minimum bending radius.

All these data are usually prescribed in the instructions, but usually the minimum bending radius is 50 cm, the maximum is 85 cm.In order to control the position of the hose, there are special plastic clamps that are put on top of the corrugation and hold it in the desired position.

Electrical connection

Since the power of the washing machine with the heating elements turned on is decent, it is advisable to bring a separate power line from the panel to it. The scheme is simple - the phase from the input is fed to the circuit breaker, from it it goes to the RCD, then by wire to the place where the outlet is installed.

All manufacturers emphasize that the socket must be grounded. Only in this case the factory guarantees remain valid.

Now about the denominations. The circuit breaker is selected according to the current required by the device. This figure can be found in the passport, or you can calculate it. It is necessary to divide the power of the washing machine by 220 V, we get the consumed current. For example, your unit has a power of 3.5 kW. We get 3500 W / 220 V \u003d 15.9 A. We take the nearest larger one at face value. They are 6 A, 10 A, 16 A, 20 A, 25 A. For our case, a 16 A machine is suitable.

Let's move on to choosing an RCD. In terms of current, it is taken one step higher than the rating of the machine, that is, for the given example, it is 32 A. But the RCD has one more characteristic - the leakage current. For devices that are connected to a dedicated line, the recommended value is 10 mA. So, for a 3.5 kW washing machine, a 16 A machine is required, a 32 A RCD, with a leakage current of 10 mA.

It would also be nice to calculate the cross-section of the wire. Today, cables with copper conductors are mainly used for wiring. They are more flexible, less heavy. The calculation is done by power or by current consumption, but since the range of power of washing machines is limited, we can say right away that for devices up to 4.1 kW, a core section of 1.5 sq. mm (copper conductors), up to 5.5 kW - 2.5 sq. mm.

And the last thing about the electrician: about the sockets. When choosing an outlet, look for more than a grounding contact. You also need to look at what voltage this outlet is designed for. Normal products have markings on the back. The maximum operating voltage is indicated there. Sometimes the rated current is set. You know it too (or you can count it as described above). If there are no inscriptions, it is better not to risk it. Most likely this is cheap Chinese consumer goods and how it will work is a mystery.

The last stage is setting the level

Connecting the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system is not all. We need to provide her with normal working conditions. In order for the washing machine not to jump during the spin cycle, it must be set strictly vertically. The position of the body is regulated by means of adjustable legs. They take a building level, put it on the lid, change the height of the legs, ensuring that the bubble in the level is exactly in the center.

Check by laying the level parallel to the front, then slide it towards the back wall. Then the procedure is repeated, but the level is applied to the side walls of the case - on one side, then on the other. After the bubble is located strictly in the center in all positions, we can assume that the washing machine is level.

If there is no level, you can try to set the machine by placing a glass with a rim on it, into which water is poured. The water level is along the rim. Change the position until the water is exactly on the rim. This method is less accurate, but better than nothing.

There is one more thing. Most often, washing machines are on a tiled floor, but it is slippery and hard. Therefore, even an ideally positioned machine sometimes "jumps" - it is impossible to extinguish vibration during spinning on a hard floor. To cope with the situation, you can put a rubber mat under the machine. It serves as an excellent shock absorber.

Whoever says what, but the purchase of an automatic washing machine is still a definite event. If it did not exist before, this event is quite serious and expectations are very high. If the washing machine has already been, something more is expected than it was before. Absolutely normal and justified desires. And after a careful selection of various "candidates", the choice was made finally, the washing machine was paid for in the store and delivered. In the end, it is already even connected. Everything seems to be fine. The machine starts up. Washes and rinses. Everything seems to be fine. The process comes to spinning the laundry. And here - an unexpected problem: the car begins to vibrate strongly. Yes, it doesn't just vibrate - it just jumps. You have to hold it down so that it doesn't go away. And now the joy turns into disappointment. First thoughts - I was sold a defective product. Just don't rush to call a store or service workshop. Do you think it's the washing machine? Let's try to figure it out.

Why does the washing machine vibrate or jump?

The most common cause of this problem is incorrect installation. We will consider in detail the common mistakes when self-commissioning an automatic washing machine.
- Shipping bolts not removed or not fully removed.

The problem is perhaps the most common one. This error is typical of inexperienced users who purchased an automatic washing machine for the first time. If all communications for connection in the house are already present, often the newly-minted owners believe that connecting the washing machine with a tap for filling water and draining into the sewer is more than enough. They can even carefully read the user manual of the washing machine, but for some unknown and unknown reason, they ignore the point or a separate part of the instructions for its correct installation. And the first thing that must be done without fail is to remove the fixing bolts and, thus, transfer the machine from the transport position to the working position. If this is not done, not only will you have to catch the washing machine at the exit. This error, if incorrectly installed, can damage the drum or its mounts. Then a new car will immediately cost significantly more. Even experienced people who know that it is required to remove the shipping bolts do not always understand how to do it correctly for a particular washing machine model. A couple of simple examples. For machines and Siemens, the removal of transport locks takes place in two stages - first, the metal screws are unscrewed (many users have not read the instructions and are limited to this), and after that it is imperative to remove the plastic bushings remaining in the case (these are not hose mounts at all).

If the bushings are not removed, jumps and an unpleasant sound will definitely be provided. The second example is Gorenje washing machines. They have shipping bolts not even bolts. Rather, these are two kind of long keys, which are steel pins almost to the entire depth of the car. To remove them, you need to unscrew a few screws and use the released handle to turn the lock 90 degrees. After that, they are simply pulled out of the body. Imagine a situation where they are not removed and the machine starts to wring out. Nothing good can happen.

- The washing machine is not positioned correctly on the floor. Ideally, the machine should be placed on a firm, level surface. It is quite easy to check if the installation is correct. You need to go to the car and push (or shake). If the machine is unstable, so to speak, it is playing - it is necessary to correct the position of the screw feet relative to the floor. For this they are needed. In simple words - twist or unscrew the legs until they are firmly fixed to the floor. It should be noted that for some models, the legs are unscrewed freely along the thread, and for some they are fixed with a lock nut. Then you have to use a wrench, it may be included in the washing machine (for example, at).

For best results, you can use the level. As already described above, the floor surface should be firm and even - concrete or ceramic tiles. Softened surfaces such as linoleum, carpet and even wood can cause the washing machine to vibrate more. In most modern stores, you can easily find special accessories with anti-vibration properties - rubber mats or stands.

The rug is a pretty good thing. Stands for legs can also help, but with them everything is not so simple. If, when buying a washing machine, the seller "lent" you coasters under the legs (well, he has such a job) and you immediately installed the machine on them, but it still vibrates - try to remove these rubber devices. Very often on "their own four" machines work more steadily. When buying shock absorbing accessories, pay attention to the quality of the rubber from which they are made.

- Possible entry of foreign objects.
Moreover, in two versions. The first is when something gets caught between the body of the washing machine and the tub. The same not removed and unnoticed plastic sleeve of the shipping bolt or part of the packaging materials, and sometimes even a nut or washer. You can remove the back cover of the washing machine or look from below (unless, of course, the bottom is closed). We remove unnecessary items, if any. The second option - foreign objects fell into the space between the tank and the drum.

In this case, extraneous noise is likely to be added to the increased vibration. You can try to look into the gap between the tank and the drum using a flashlight and rotating the drum by hand. If the car is new and an unnecessary item is not yours and got inside even before the purchase, there is every reason to make a claim to the store or manufacturer. Old wood floors are a common problem. The wood is capable of shrinking, cavities and irregularities are formed. A washing machine placed on such a surface will almost certainly not have good stability. The way out is to normalize the flooring at the installation site or choose a new place.

Which washing machines are more prone to vibration.

In fact, the ideal washing machine is full-sized. Due to its size and installation area, it is the most stable and can cause it to jump or not removed transport bolts or a serious problem. Of course, compact models are at risk.

A narrower drum and a smaller footprint inevitably cause vibration and louder performance. It is in these cases that various anti-vibration devices should not be neglected.

Here is a list of recommendations, following which you can easily achieve a calm, quiet and trouble-free operation from a "jumping" washing machine. And you always need to start with the correct installation, because in the overwhelming majority of cases normal further operation depends on it, as well as the stability of the machine in the place chosen for its location.

Today there are many brands of washing machines that differ in both external and internal parameters, that is, they are not only able to successfully fit into any interior, but also perform several different washing modes. In addition, modern models do not end the rinse cycle as long as there is soap suds in the drum. But in order for the washing machine to last a long time, it is important to know how to fix the washing machine.

In the installation instructions for any washing machine, one mandatory requirement will be indicated - the floor must be flat, preferably concrete. Place the washing machine on a flat surface, after unscrewing the transport bolts from the back wall, which protect the drum of the machine from damage during transportation. If there is a strong vibration during the first start, it should be forcibly stopped.

Knowing how to stop the washing machine quickly will not cause significant damage. In different machines, this can be done in different ways, - with the "stop" button or "drain water" + "stop". Then you can take measures to eliminate vibration of the washing machine during operation. Sometimes it is enough to twist the legs so that they are perfectly level and low to the floor, you can also lay a rubber mat that will compensate for the force of vibration.

You can extend the service life if you know how to rinse the washing machine. After each wash, it is recommended to remove the remaining detergent from the compartment for loading it. To eliminate the unpleasant odor that often forms in the washing machine due to the accumulation of water residues, it is useful to turn the machine without washing, setting the temperature to 90 degrees. It is not necessary to set the complete program cycle, ten minutes is enough and you can drain the water.

When buying new equipment, the question arises of how to transport a washing machine, for example, to a country house. Here you should perform the same procedure as during installation, only in the reverse order. It is also necessary to re-fix the drum with the transport bolts. All hoses should be folded into a separate bag, and the wire should be twisted and secured with tape on the back of the washing machine.

It does not hurt to replace the pump before installing the machine in a new place, especially if you notice that the machine does not drain water well. It is important to know how to remove the washing machine pump in order to replace it with a new one. Many people prefer to call a master for this, but you can do it yourself. It has a different location in different models of washing machines. Therefore, a design diagram may be required, which can be found in the instructions.

It is periodically necessary to carry out preventive maintenance of the washing machine. That is, service! This will not only save you from wasting extra money, but will also significantly increase the service life. Timely maintenance of washing machines ...

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