Mountain rescue token. Token. Rescue in the mountains. And in winter conditions. avalanche preparation

Token "Rescue in the mountains"(exists since the beginning of the 60s) after the collapse of the Union, it was resumed and began to be carried out only in May 2007. And, in fact, it was already another event in another country (new equipment, techniques, people). But, we must pay tribute, everything that they could have saved, taken and transferred to new soil. So the tradition has remained. Now there is a new global upgrade, and not only of this course, but also of the training system in our country for climbers in general. Traditions are still trying to keep, but they still put modernization and transition to modern technologies at the forefront. So, it was extremely interesting not only to learn (and there was something to learn!), But also to observe the transformations taking place ...

Photo report - below.

In 2007, everyone rushed to the first set as if stung, then only reborn Token... Yes, and I, to be honest, was going to. The composition was notable, including the current executive director of the FAR Alexey Ovchinnikov, the leading methodologist of the FAR Serega Vedenin, the current chief on the Token - Andrei Glebovich Shvyrev, the legendary Porokhnya, the "star" Ira Morozova, the prominent tourist Nikonorov, and simply good climbers and tourists Sanya Artemova, etc.

And they called me to participate, but now I understand, it's good that I didn't go ..



The fact is that then the course was very crude (which is not surprising). Now, after 6 years, he acquired flesh and blood, became whole. Largely due to the current strong team of teachers / trainers... So, in terms of the composition of the participants, yes, that first one, in 2007, was a "stellar" and extremely interesting course, but not in terms of training, but in terms of communication. Today the situation is reversed. The course is crystallized and faceted. You can and should go.

In general, this is a standard story, with any courses and master classes, especially highly specialized ones. In the beginning it is cheap, interesting, fun (a lot depends on enthusiasm and communication), when everything settles down - it is elite, expensive, but extremely productive. Of course IMHO.


Since this year, for the first time, the Token is held in Bezengi (before that - in the EMERCOM Center in Tsei). And this is the right choice for a thousand reasons.


Alpine camp "Bezengi" (Kabardino-Balkaria, Bezengi gorge). Even among the alpine bases of the USSR, it was one of the best, where everyone was striving to get *, and among the current ones it was definitely the best! And the question is not even in the geographical location, and in the presence of rocks, mountains, ice, etc., although not without it. And the fact that her director is wonderful. Ali Huseich - an excellent business executive and really wants to make the climbers feel good on his land. The base is constantly developing, new buildings are being built, old ones are being repaired, equipment is being purchased, including for rental. The site has just been launched - bezengi.ru

* the path here was ordered for beginners, strictly from the 2nd category


They say that in Soviet times the Badge was a month. Willingly believed (then the effect of scale was loved). But how many hours per day of study and practice? As usual, 8-9 in total. But in the current one, everything is not so, it is 2 weeks with a penny, but so that after inhaling, you forget to exhale, as you got up at 7 in the morning, so until 23:00 classes, with short breaks for food. Therefore, by and large, the same month turns out.

In the photo: a sports ground, which is perfectly suited for practicing many blocks of rope technology. Close, safe, convenient and, accordingly, high efficiency.


The standard schedule included 5 hours of practice on the rocks(before lunch) + 5:00after that. Then dinner and, the theory began - 2-3 presentations / lectures, which, however, were often also replaced by practice, damn it ...

When at 23:00 in the canteen you put a tourniquet on a conditional victim for the 10th time or make splints for him from improvised means, it makes you sick. In a good way. You sleep and you see these same tires.


Therefore, having come "home" you no longer pay attention to the very conditional comfort of your home, you just want to drink tea and sleep. And often I don't even want tea)).


Maybe beer, but his "no, no", otherwise fines and penalties from the authorities (the event is generally quite strict). And will there be enough health for beer? Question. Therefore, they dreamed about it more than used it. And thank God.


It should be noted the general fan and positive attitude, including among our teachers. If not for this, it would be difficult.

On the picture: Denis Kiselev (teacher on the Badge, instructor UIAA, CCM). Will be remembered by all the participants of the training camp, I'm sure. And not only on night rescue work, where he perfectly played an inadequate victim ( "Oh, I'm scared, will you save me?"), but also with their professionalism, combined with a good sense of humor.


And there were a lot of new things, believe me ... I had to as when entering a university "forget everything that was taught". The current mountain rescue technique is based entirely on the fact that everything happens without any clamps., - only "Prusiki" (Canadian and tandem) are used in all possible combinations, blocked by Munter Mull, if possible. Well, on the fact that everywhere "mirror" systems, duplicating each other. And it doesn't matter what kind of rescues: in a two-man team, in a large team, or on large-scale works.


The original send is "You have cubes, and you have to put them in an optimal design for your unique situation."... Like "of course there are templates, BUT actually they are not, improvise using those blocks that you know".

In the photo: Sanya Zhigalov (Krasnoyarsk, Foreva!), Thoughtfully, crumples pussy in his pocket cordalet... and not the first day hesitates. And Seryoga Vedenin (chief methodologist) blows up the brain with another portion of information. He did it regularly.


We were losing strength, but we held on ...


Vedenin was tireless, if not to say that he was irrepressible


Simple techniques, albeit modified, were easy, of course. Still, the average level of cadets is very, very high (mountaineering instructors, KMS, many - training instructors in special forces). There were many active rescuers, including guys from the Elbrus region. Even the head of the Elbrus rescue team, our handsome Magician (in the photo - in a yellow helmet).


But with complex techniques, in the form transportation of the victim to Akye on difficult terrain (traverses, oblique railings, etc.), things were not going very well at first. All the same, the amount of information read off scale. In addition, by this time, teachers had switched almost completely to "problem" teaching method, so we had to think out many things ourselves ... and they are not obvious, as you understand.


It's one thing when you have rope equipment, jumars, pullovers, etc., but a completely different calico when you have only carabiners and a pair of rope laces 5 meters long. And you need to make a complex chain hoist system for lifting a load of 250 kg, followed by its movement along the railing and then lowering along the oblique ones. To pull off everything at the end and keep within the control time. Hmm ...


Likewise on ice.


Therefore, it is not surprising that even those many hours that we studied were sorely lacking.


Besides, they chased us like ...


Working out the extraction of the victim from the glacial crack against this background, it is remembered as a pleasant entertainment event. Painfully, it was easy and unconstrained, relative to everything else associated with "pulling out the victim." Here he is at least one, without an accompanying person.


At the same time, every single day, all teachers assessed each of us on many points. Both within the framework of individual blocks (RPS in two, RPS in a crack, RPS in a team), and outside them.


There was simply no time to contemplate the beauty around ...

The fact that not a single day of rest was provided is certainly an omission. The places are incredibly beautiful. I felt like going somewhere, just taking a walk. Well, or just lie down and relax.



...


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...


...

In addition to the actual rescue technique, there were many accompanying lectures and classes on the topics: first aid, orientation, rescue tactics, avalanche safety, rescue psychology, the history of the Token, and much more. Not a single checkpoint, all very capacious and useful.

I am also picky about the teaching staff, I always make high demands, but even here I show the team an iron 5. Perhaps it would be worth equipping the classroom better, but this is a question for Ali Khuseevich, since this is his fiefdom.


First Aid Course read within 2 days Sasha Dergachev, head of the Moscow regional branch of the Russian Union of Rescuers - ruor.org. This is one of the best teachers I've met. And as a practitioner (rescuer, doctor) and as a methodologist, he is great, not to mention the all-consuming charisma. Now I will send all the suffering to the First Aid courses only to him.


Avalanche block was very small, about 5 hours at most. Alas. This agrees very well with the fact that the level of avalanche training among climbers in our country is catastrophically low, below the plinth. Until at least a basic 3-day course is started at such major events as Token and TsSHI (Central School of Instructors), the situation will not fundamentally change. And climbers / mountain hikers will be one of the most important groups of citizens dying in avalanches.


Well, work with probes (fast / careful probing), God forgive me ... this is the work of the Ministry of Emergencies, not ours. This has nothing to do with the group's self-salvation. This is a method of searching for corpses, all over the world, not living ones.



...

Serega Vedenin himself understands this very well, but he cannot jump above the approved program. It's a pity. Conclusion - you need to expand the program, at least for the avalanche part.


Where without it))



...

We had a lot of fun here. Still, carrying the victim using (and not using) available means is from the category of "fun and enjoyable." Not a circus, but it looks like. Healthy guys, but they do this ...


But, in akye, if there is one, it is much more convenient and safer.


Not like using ice axes (yes, they do not only chop ice and cook porridge with them).


Oh ... the cadets were given a living woman. The guys immediately blew their roof off, began to behave inappropriately. Forgot how to pack and carry the victim, completely. For some reason, on the contrary, they wanted to "unpack" and not drag them anywhere, they say "why?"


But jokes, jokes, and very quickly it was time for exams.


And here we were no longer given a chance, what kind of women were there ...

Well, for a hitch many hours of night search and rescue operations (AKP), with many victims, some of them here, some there, someone just got lost, someone crashed on the wall ... in general, "to the fullest" so that life does not seem like honey.


Thereafter final practical exam we were finally given a day to rest and dry. Well, to get ready. This is also the final test, but in terms of theory. 140 questions and each of which needs to be answered in writing, often making explanatory drawings and diagrams (not a test, not once). A kind of intellectual marathon ...

Some of the teachers threw up the idea that this is a great opportunity "understand what you really know and what you don't"... This thought stuck in me and I decided not to prepare at all, not to learn all these laws of pulley blocks, the rules of mountain climbing, the rights and obligations of OB, etc. In order to make a certain cut of what is really in me at the moment, and not what I will stuff into the RAM and give it out on the exam (I had no doubts that I can do this well).

I was very pleased with the result - the best on the course. And not only on the theoretical exam, but also on the total score (93.1 out of 100). This is how it goes. You do not prepare, do not plow, but become the 1st. As Somerset Maugham said there: "If you refuse to accept anything but the best in life, you often get the very best."


Having finally passed all the exams, a free day appeared, on which we gladly went to the Mises-Kosh camps, to the memorial stone and the grave of climbers.


And at the same time admire the Bezengi wall. At least from afar ... And it’s a sin to spend so much time in Bezengi without seeing her. In general, the last time I was in the area was in 1999, I missed the place.


In the end, the traditional rewarding, celebration and departure.

I specially came to the rewarding with tokens executive Director of the Russian Mountaineering Federation (PAR), - Alexey Ovchinnikov. It was nice. But not even that, but that which he devoted specially to us, tokenists, time and arranged something like a personal meeting with the cadets, without teachers, only he and us. You could ask any questions, but he answered without hesitation. At the end of the meeting, he simply talked about the "party policy", new trends, and where we are heading for our Russian mountaineering community. Very open, constructive and understandable. There would be more such climbers and, especially, officials)).

P.S.I hope I have opened the topic at least a little, although an attentive reader will see that much remains outside the brackets.

P.P.S. Everyone course teachers(Andrey Fedorovich Selivanov, Valery Nikolaevich Kuznetsov, Andriyan Match, Denis Kiselev, Alexander Dergachev, Anastasia Tyrsikova, Akkaev Aznaur, Sergey Vedenin) - thank you so much for the science!And communication, of course

Training camp for the training of public rescuers-climbers.

From April 18 to May 10, 2019, the Russian Mountaineering Federation is holding an All-Russian specialized training camp for the training of rescuer climbers. Badge "Rescue in the mountains".

The TCB will be held in the Caucasus at the Bezengi AUSB and will consist of two parts - modular and main.

Senior coach - Ivan Alentsev.

Requirements for candidates for TCB:

Age - at least 20 years old.

Sports qualification corresponding to the 2nd sports category in mountaineering or CCM in mountain tourism, in accordance with the requirements of the EVSK of the Ministry of Sports of Russia

Or mountain experience that meets the following requirements: at least 2 years of mountaineering or mountain tourism.

Climbing experience: for climbers - at least 12 ascents, of which at least five 3 grade. for tourists - the experience of participating in at least 6 mountain hikes, including two hikes 4 class

Cost of participation

Participation fee, full course from April 18 to May 10 (for FAR members) - 42 500 rubles.

Participation fee - the main program from April 26 to May 10 (for FAR members) - 28 700 rubles.

The training is subsidized by PAR sponsors and does not apply to military units.

ATTENTION: The price does not include accommodation and meals at AUSB "Bezengi". There will be a special offer from the base for the Token participants.

It is also possible to take the distance course "Initial training of rescuers" and obtain a lifeguard certificate. In this case, at the beginning of April you will get access to an Internet course, which can be completed remotely from 3 to 7 days before the start of the token collection. The cost of the online course is 4,500 rubles.

Recipient: All-Russian public organization - Russian Mountaineering Federation (FAR) (please indicate the recipient of the payment legibly, in block letters: FAR)

All-Russian public organization - Russian Mountaineering Federation (FAR)
INN 7704178314 KPP 770401001
PJSC ROSBANK, Moscow
account 40703810997530000007
Correspondent account No. 30101810000000000256
BIK 044525256

OGRN 1037739561892
OKATO 45286590000
OKPO 40216322
OKVED 93.1

Applying for TCB

Register on the FAR website and be sure to fill in all the data in the electronic user profile (contact information, mountaineering and additional qualifications, information about ascents - electronic "Mountaineer Book"). Applications for participation in the TCB from those who have not filled out the user's electronic page on the FAR website are not accepted;

Send to the PAR. The application must be sent by e-mail to the address: [email protected] In the subject line, indicate "Application for participation in the TCB" Rescue in the mountains "from the name of the cadet."

On the FAR website, no later than February 10, 2019, a list of climbers who have applied for TCB will be published. An affirmative answer to the acceptance of the application will come no later than 5 days after the application is submitted.

Inquiries and explanations by phone 8 916 336 84 40 (Alentsev Ivan)

From September 20 to October 5, 2014, the Russian Mountaineering Federation together with the Russian Union of Rescuers is holding the XV All-Russian specialized training camp for the training of rescuers-climbers. Badge "Rescue in the mountains".

I. Procedure

TCB will be held in the Bezengi alpine camp (Kabardino-Balkarian Republic) under two programs: traditional and modular.

Traditional program

Collection plan:

September 20 - Until 14.00 - gathering of participants in Nalchik, at the office of AUSB "Bezengi" at the address: Chaikovskogo St., 3. Organized group arrival at the camp and placement of candidates in the AUSB "Bezengi". documents).

September 25 - October 3 - Practical and theoretical classes with cadets under the Rescue in the Mountains program and the module “Initial training of rescuers of the Russian Emergencies Ministry”.

Modular program.

Attention! for training in a modular program, the candidate must submit documents on the completion of courses (modules) on the topics: "RPS in a small group", "First aid", "Basic avalanche training"! Documents are provided when submitting a scanned form. The presence of the PAR stamp on the certificates for "RPS in a small group" and "Basic avalanche training" is required.

Collection plan:

September 25 - Until 14.00 - gathering of participants in Nalchik, at the office of AUSB "Bezengi" at the address: K Chaikovskogo St., 3.
Organized group visit to the camp and placement of candidates in the AUSB "Bezengi". Credentials committee (submission of necessary documents by candidates for TCB).

September 26 - Passing entrance exams on the topics: "RPS in a small group", "First aid", "Basic avalanche training".

September 27 - October 3 - Practical and theoretical classes with cadets under the Rescue in the Mountains program and the module “Initial training of rescuers of the Russian Emergencies Ministry”.
Examinations and state certification by the EMERCOM of Russia commission.

II. Distance learning of cadets on the theoretical part of the "Program of initial training of the rescuer of the EMERCOM of Russia".

Participants wishing to receive state certification for the title of "rescuer" must complete a course of distance theoretical training under the "Program for the initial training of rescuers of the EMERCOM of Russia" and pass the test.
Mandatory requirement for training: the presence of a computer and the Internet. Duration of the distance learning course: up to 2 weeks.

Step 1. Payment.

The beginning of distance learning after receipt of payment for the theoretical distance course (100%), payment must be made before August 25 (!)

To confirm payment - a copy of the receipt must be sent to the following email addresses: [email protected] and [email protected]

The cost of training is 4000 rubles. Paid by the student separately.

In the body of the letter, write: "Distance theoretical course on training a rescuer of the Russian Emergencies Ministry, payment from the full name of the cadet."

Step 2. Training.

After payment, the student gets access to the training portal.
Each student is assigned a personal login and password for admission to the training site. The trainee (without interruption from work) enters the site under his username and password, studies the training materials and, based on the results of the training, passes the final test in the test mode.

The educational process is managed by a methodologist from Rossoyuzspas.

Step 3. Passing the test.

In case of successful completion of the final test, a document confirming the completion of the theoretical course "Initial training of rescuers" is issued.

A copy of the certificate in electronic form is sent to the student's e-mail.
The student receives the original certificate upon arrival at the place of the TCB.

III. Requirements for candidates for TCB:

Age - at least 20 years old.
Sports qualification corresponding to the 2nd sports category in mountaineering, CCM in mountain tourism, according to the requirements of the EWSK of the Ministry of Sports of Russia, or mountain experience that meets the following requirements.

Mountain experience: at least 2 years of mountaineering or mountaineering
Climbing experience:
for climbers - at least 12 ascents, of which at least five 3 grade.
for tourists - the experience of participating in at least 6 mountain hikes, including two hikes 4 class

Provision of the following documents:
- general civil passport (or identity document);
- a letter of application for referral to the TCB, certified by the head of the sending organization (regional federation, club, mountaineering section or other organization);
- a document confirming mountaineering experience and qualifications (FAR climber book, registration card or other document listing the completed ascents, certified by the seal of an organization that has the right to confirm mountaineering qualifications);
- a medical certificate of admission to mountaineering or a certificate in the form No. 086u - is required for cadets applying for state certification of the Ministry of Emergencies of Russia;
- Candidates from among the certified rescuers submit to the TCB Credentials Committee the Rescuer Book and the Rescuer Certificate;
- compulsory health insurance policy;
- three color photos 3x4.

IV. Accident insurance policy:

School cadets are strongly advised to have a "traveler's policy" (provision of medical and transportation services) or an accident insurance policy (financial assistance in case of injury) with coverage in the amount of at least 300,000 rubles (indicating the category of occupation - "mountaineering") for the entire collection period.

The policy can be issued through the Russian Mountaineering Federation by filling out one of the forms in the application and sending it to the address: [email protected] (insurance questionnaires in the appendix).

Estimated cost of the policy:

insurance under the "E" insurance program will be (insurance coverage $ 30,000):
from September 20 - October 5 for 16 days will be 2250 rubles.
from September 25 - October 5 for 11 days will be 1600 rubles.

insurance under the HC insurance program and coverage of 300,000 rubles:
from September 20 to October 5 for 16 days will be 1600 rubles.
from September 25 - October 5 for 11 days will be 1100 rubles.

More complete information on insurance in a special section on insurance on the FAR website

V. Personal equipment

TCB participants must have personal equipment in the amount necessary and sufficient to pass entrance test exams on the terrain and conduct search and rescue operations on all forms of mountainous terrain, as well as for exits to the high-mountain zone (sleeping bags, rugs, gas burners, dishes ).
It is also recommended to have - a laptop, a GPS device, avalanche probes, shovels and sensors (beppers).

Vi. Self-preparation before TCB

When preparing for TCB for the Mountain Rescue Token, candidates need to independently study several training topics.
Questions on topics will be asked at the Credentials Committee of the TCB. (see the required topics in the appendix).

Vii. Applying for TCB

They register on the FAR website and must fill in all the data in the electronic user profile (contact information, mountaineering and additional qualifications, information about ascents). Applications for participation in the TCB from those who have not filled out the user's electronic page on the FAR website are not accepted;

An application for participation in TCB is sent to the PAR (see attachments), in the application they indicate a link to an electronic page on the PAR website and the size of outerwear. If you have a certificate for the completed module, send a scanned certificate together with a questionnaire (“RPS in a small group”, “First aid”, “Basic avalanche training”).

The application and petition must be sent by e-mail to two addresses: [email protected] and [email protected].

Specify in the subject line "Application for participation in the XV TCB" Rescue in the mountains "from the name of the cadet"

On the FAR website, no later than September 3, 2014, a preliminary list of climbers who have submitted their applications for TCB will be published.

The set for the training camp by the number of cadets is limited to 36 people.

Note: When enrolling in TCB, candidates have an additional advantage:
- members of the Russian Mountaineering Federation who have paid the membership fee (individual and collective);
- employees of the EMERCOM of Russia, military personnel, employees of rescue services and special forces, employees of institutions of additional education and other persons, if there are appropriate requests.

Collection of documents for the TCB for certification to receive the Badge "Rescue in the Mountains".

2. The order of admission. Qualification requirements. Documents.

3. Entrance requirements.

Physical fitness standards

technical skills

Theoretical knowledge

4. Training program for "Mountain Rescue Token".

5. The list of obligatory knowledge and skills that the cadet must acquire upon completion of training for the "Rescue in the mountains" token.

1. Introduction. Goals and objectives.
This program is intended for individuals undergoing mountain rescue badge certification.

The purpose of this training program is to master the technique and tactics of carrying out rescue operations in the mountains and the formation of a culture of accident-free hiking and climbing in mountainous areas.

At the end of the training, the cadet must have the knowledge and skills sufficient to carry out and organize rescue operations in the mountains on simple and difficult terrain in all weather and climatic conditions.

A cadet who has successfully passed the final exams and passed certification at the Ministry of Emergency Situations is awarded the title "Rescuer" and is issued a numbered badge and a certificate "Rescue in the mountains".
2. The procedure for admission to the training program.
Applicants must meet the following requirements to apply for the Mountain Rescue Token Training Course:

Age - at least 20 years old;

Have sports qualifications: at least 1 sports category in mountaineering or the title of "candidate for master of sports" in mountain tourism;

Send the candidate's questionnaire for the TCB "Rescue in the Mountains" to the AFR (see Appendix 1)
Upon arrival at the TCB, the candidate submits the following documents to the TCB Credentials Committee, drawn up accordingly:

Passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation (or other identity document);

Mountaineer's book;

Athlete's passport (classification ticket), certified by the regional (municipal) executive authority in the field of physical culture and sports (order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the athlete's passport are required);

A climber's registration card, certified by the regional mountaineering federation, mountaineering club, section or regional (municipal) executive authority in the field of physical culture and sports (order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the athlete's passport are required);

Conclusion based on the results of a medical examination of fitness for work in extreme conditions (medical examination is carried out in accordance with the order of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation No. 90 of March 14, 1996, the wording of the entry "fit for work as a rescuer");

Participants of the training for the "Rescue in the mountains" token, who are certified rescuers, in addition to the above documents, submit to the TCB Credentials Committee "Rescuer Book" and "Rescuer Certificate" (rescuers' re-certification is required every 3 years);

3 color photos 3x4;

Compulsory health insurance policy;

Accident insurance policy with a validity period not less than the period of the fees.
3. Entry requirements for candidates:

passing the entrance requirements by candidates:

Test exam in rock technique;

Physical fitness test.
4. Training program for "Mountain Rescue Token".
1 PART - candidates passing entrance tests.
- test exam in rock preparation;

Ice Technique Test Exam;

Physical fitness test.

PART 2 - Entrance / exit (examination) test for the theoretical level of knowledge in the rescue service and search and rescue operations in the mountains:

Answers to questions about the theory and practice of mountaineering.
Part 3 - practical skills in carrying out rescue operations in the mountains on different types of relief and in different conditions:

Mastering the skills of carrying out rescue operations in the mountains, with the passing of tests.
PART 4 - "A tactical plan for carrying out rescue operations at

route ":

For climbers 1 grade - on a route not lower than 5 "A" category

difficulty, for climbers KMS - on the route not lower than 5 "B"


5 PART - competition:

natural relief.
PART 6 - final exams.

1 part. Technical readiness tests of candidates for

training camp for rescuers-climbers.
The tests given below represent an integrated check of the technical and physical fitness of climbers when entering the training camp for the training of rescuers-climbers. The tests are designed for 1st class climbers. The set of equipment and individual physical training of candidates before the exam must correspond to this level. The equipment used must be certified.

1. Test exam in rock preparation.

Climbing rocky terrain with bottom belay.

Har-ka routes:

1) the length of the track is 15-20 meters;

2) the difficulty of the track

Men: VI + c / c (6a c / c in French classif)

Women: VI c / tr (5 c / c in French classif)

3) number of belay points (guys) 10-12 (pcs)
2. Ice technology

Climbing on ice terrain with lower belay.

Har-ka routes:

1) the length of the track is 15-20 meters;

2) the angle of inclination of the slope is 60-70 degrees.

3) Organization of insurance points is done independently

(the distance between the ice screws is at least 3 meters).

There are already installed safety control points on the track (2-3 screwed-in ice screws with guy wires), which must be clicked on!
3. Working with a fixed rope (railing) on \u200b\u200brocky or ice terrain.

Climbing a fixed rope with a load.

Conditions of passage and characteristics of the route:

1) the length of the track is 25 meters;

2) slope angle 70-90 degrees

3) weight of cargo

Men - 15 kg;

Women - 10 kg.
4. Cross in the alpine zone.

The task of the participants is to start, find the "victim", return to the finish line. The place of the start-finish, the place where the "victim" is, the length of the cross-country track, the average time of passing the cross-country track are determined. The marks to the participants for the shown temporary result are determined at the place of the cross according to the condition of the route, the steepness of the slope and other conditions.

5. Ascent and descent of the victim (load) by 7-10 m, weight 70-80 kg.
Held on a rock. It is necessary to raise the victim below the position, with a pulley block to a height of 10 m. Organization of the station independently on ready-made anchors. The weight of the lumps is 70 - 80 kg for men, for women - 40-50 kg.

After lifting, you need to remake the chain hoist, to the descent system, and lower the victim to the ground.

2 PART. Interview

PART 3. Practical skills in carrying out rescue operations in the mountains on different types of relief and in different conditions.

The use of improvised means and climbing equipment when transporting a victim on a simple mountainous terrain.

Transportation by 1 lifeguard.

Transportation by 2 lifeguards.

Knitting of a stretcher from improvised means and climbing equipment.

Transportation of the injured by a transport squad.

Transportation of the victim along steep and steep slopes.

Rescue operations on rocky terrain.

Rope fastening systems for descent, ascent and movement of the victim.

Braking systems during the descent of the victim.

Build-up of ropes.

Polystyrene systems.

Rescue operations on difficult rocky terrain.

Lifting rescuers to the victim.

Organization of the descent of the victim.

Organization of lifting the victim.

Organization of traversing of slope and wall sections.

Organization of wall traversing.

Rescue and transportation operations on snowy terrain.

Tying a stretcher from improvised means and climbing equipment on snowy terrain.

Organization of descent stations on steep snowy slopes.

Features of rescue operations in small groups.

Features of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.

Rescue and transportation operations on glaciers and ice relief.

Types of lifting the victim from the crack.

Ascent and descent of the victim on glaciers and ice relief.

Hanging crossings over cracks on the glacier.

Organization of insurance and railings when transporting the injured person across the glacier and ice relief.

Features of rescue operations in small groups.

Features of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.

Technical support and safety equipment when working on an avalanche slope.

The use of technical means in search and rescue operations (SAR) in avalanches.

Tactics and methods of carrying out the RPS in avalanches.

AKP by the forces of the group members.

AKP by the forces of the rescue squad.

Features of rescue operations in small groups.

Features of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.

Avalanche test for each rescuer.

Safety rules for crossing and crossing the victim through mountain rivers.

Methods for crossing mountain rivers.

Features of rescue operations in small groups.

Features of carrying out rescue operations when approaching the route in two.

Organization of the helicopter landing site, observing all safety measures.

Helicopter hovering at low altitude and rescuers jumping off.

Helicopter hovering and rescuer descent on a rope or rope.

Lifting the stretcher with the victim and an accompanying person using a winch.

Carrying out the RPS at night.
4 PART. "A tactical plan for rescue operations at

route ".

Development and execution of an abstract of a tactical plan;

For climbers 1 grade - on a route not lower than 5 "A" category of difficulty, for climbers KMS - on a route not lower than 5 "B" category of difficulty;

Defense of the abstract at final exams.

PART 5. Competition:

Mountain rescue competition in different forms

natural relief.
Competitions between educational departments are held on natural terrain. The venue of the competition is the TCB area for the "Rescue in the Mountains" token. The course of the competition must include:

Place start-finish;

Team's march to the rocks;

Ascent of the team along the rocky relief with the "victim";

Traverse of the team on rock relief with the "victim";

Descent of the "victim" with an accompanying person with a build-up of ropes and descent of the team along the rocky relief;

The team's march to the avalanche site;

RPS in an avalanche using technical means;

Orientation by map and with GPS.

Transportation of the "victim" to the place of crossing the mountain river;

The crossing of the "victim" and the department across the river;

Transportation of the "victim" to the finish line, the finish line.

Note.

The "victim" is determined by drawing lots from among the cadets of the training department-team before the start and on the avalanche, after working on the avalanche with technical means.

This is the basis for the competition, but the course and conditions of the competition may be changed due to objective circumstances. All TCB cadets for the "Rescue in the Mountains" token must participate in competitions in training teams.

Similar competitions can be held among lifeguards.
6 PART. Final exams.
The basis for questions in the final exam tickets are theoretical and practical training, competitions, defense of the abstract "Tactical plan for carrying out rescue operations on the route".

5. The list of obligatory knowledge and skills that the cadet must acquire upon completion of training for the "Rescue in the mountains" token.
At the end of the training course, the candidate must possess the following list of mandatory knowledge and skills.


  1. Knowledge of federal laws: No. 151 FZ "ON EMERGENCY AND RESCUE SERVICES AND THE STATUS OF RESCUEERS" and N 68-FZ "ON PROTECTION OF POPULATION AND TERRITORIES FROM EMERGENCY SITUATIONS OF NATURAL AND MAN-GENERAL CHARACTER"

  2. Knowledge of the structure and principles of the organization of the emergency rescue service in Russia and the ability to organize interaction between the structures of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and public rescue teams and rescuers.

  3. Basic knowledge of rescue operations not in mountainous areas (firefighting, man-made disasters, etc.).

  4. Knowledge on "Dangers in the Mountains".

  5. Knowledge on the topic "Accidents and their causes when playing sports in mountainous areas."

  6. Knowledge and skills to provide first aid to the victim, including first psychological aid.

    1. Stopping bleeding (pressing, tourniquet)

    2. Basic complex cardiopulmonary resuscitation

    3. Bandages (for trauma, wound)

    4. Immobilization

    5. Anti-shock measures

    6. First aid kit

      1. Personal first-aid kit (it is the same when climbing in two)

      2. First aid kit for a mountaineering group / department (for a group of 4-6 people)

      3. First aid kit for training / squad (for 25-30 people).

      4. First aid kit when climbing in remote areas of the world

  7. Knowledge and skills in transporting a victim with improvised means on a simple mountainous terrain (grassy slopes, talus, snow).

    1. Carrying the victim alone

      1. Carrying a short distance on the shoulders

      2. Carrying on the back

      3. Carrying on a rope

      4. Carrying in a backpack

    2. Carrying the victim together

      1. Hand lock

      2. Rope loop seat.

      3. Sitting made of rope made of trekking poles (up and down)

      4. Backpacks and trekking poles seats (up and down)

    3. Making stretchers from available tools - telescopic sticks, skis, ice axes, sticks and other items.

      1. Cocoon stretcher (rope and rugs)

      2. Stretcher made of ice axes, trekking poles and rope

      3. Stretcher made of ice axes, trekking poles and jackets (clothes)

      4. Stretcher made of poles, sticks and rope

    4. Transportation of the injured with the help of the standard rescue stretcher "Akya".

      1. Assembling akyi UT2000

      2. Assembling aluminum akyi

      3. Transportation of the victim uphill, downhill, by traverse

      4. Organization of insurance during transportation of the injured person to Akye

    5. Interaction of rescuers and organization of insurance during transportation of the victim.

      1. Organization of insurance on a grassy slope

      2. Organization of insurance for scree

      3. Organization of insurance on the snow

      4. Organization of insurance on ice

Announcement of the start of accepting applications
The Mountaineering Federation of Russia announces the recruitment of cadets for the VII All-Russian specialized training camp for the preparation of public rescuers-climbers for the "Rescue in the mountains" badge.

Venue and dates
Republic of North Ossetia - Alania, Tseyskoye gorge, mountain training center "Tsei" of the North Ossetian search and rescue team of the Russian Emergencies Ministry.

Collection plan
April 22 - arrival and placement of candidates in the State Research and Development Center "Tsey".
April 23-24 - passing entrance exams and test standards. For the fulfillment of each standard, points are awarded, by the amount of which the place in the list of candidates is determined.
According to the results of passing the entrance exams, the cadets who take from 1 to 30 places are enrolled.
April 25 - the beginning of TCB classes.
May 11-12 - passing exams
May 13 - the end of the training camp, departure of the participants.

Requirements for candidates

1. Age - at least 20 years old.

2. Sports qualification corresponding to the 1st sports category in mountaineering (according to the requirements of the EVSK of the Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Russian Federation).

3. Provision of the following documents:
- medical certificate №086у (see example in the appendix)
- Climber's book
- a classification ticket (athlete's passport), certified by a regional (municipal) executive authority in the field of physical culture and sports (order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the document are required)
- passport
- participants from among the certified rescuers, in addition, submit to the TCB credentials committee "Rescuer Book" and "Rescuer Certificate" (rescuer re-certification is required every 3 years)
- compulsory health insurance policy
- a letter of petition for referral to the TCB, certified by the head of the regional mountaineering federation (club, section)
- three color photos 3x4

4. Personal equipment
TCB participants must have personal equipment in the amount necessary and sufficient for carrying out search and rescue operations on all forms of mountainous terrain, as well as for exits to the high-mountainous zone (sleeping bags, rugs, gas burners, dishes).
It is also recommended to have avalanche probes, shovels and beppers (avalanche sensors), laptop and GPS device.

Applying for TCB

The questionnaire must be sent by e-mail to two addresses - to FAR - [email protected] and the senior coach of the UTS Shvyrev Andrey Glebovich - [email protected].

It is obligatory to fill in all the points in the application form.

Attention to climbers - not citizens of the Russian Federation. After submitting the application, it will be necessary to additionally send a copy of the passport to obtain a permit to stay in a special border area.

Note:
When enrolling in TCB, candidates have an additional advantage:
- employees of the EMERCOM of Russia, military personnel, employees of rescue services and special forces, employees of institutions of additional education;
- members of the Russian Mountaineering Federation who paid the membership fee (individual and collective)
Tuition fees, payment, discounts, educational grant "Red Fox Scholarship"
The total cost of training is 30,000 rubles.
For members of the Russian Mountaineering Federation - 20,000 rubles.
Holders of the "Russian Mountain Club" card are given a 10% discount.