Watt Converter in amps. Watt Converter in Ampere Online Calculator Paying Watt in Amperes

Electrical systems often require complex analysis when designing, because it is necessary to operate with many different quantities, watts, volts, amps, etc. At the same time, it is precisely necessary to calculate their ratio at a certain load on the mechanism. In some systems, the voltage is fixed, for example, in home networkBut the power and strength of the current denote different concepts, although they are interchangeable values.

Online calculator for the calculation of watt in amps

To obtain the result, it is necessary to specify voltage and power consumed.

In such cases, it is very important to have an assistant, in order to accurately translate cotton wool in amps with a constant voltage value.

We will help to translate amps in Watta Calculator online. Before using the Internet program for the calculation of values, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe value of the required data.

1. Power is the rate of energy consumption. For example, a 100-W light bulb uses energy - 100 Joules per second.
2. Ampere - Power Measurement electric currentis determined in the coulons and shows the number of electrons that passed through a specific section of the conductor during the specified time.
3. Volta is measured with voltage of electric current.

To transfer watt to amps calculator is very simple, the user must enter the voltage indicator (B) in the specified graphs, further consumed the power of the unit (W) and click the calculate button. After a few seconds, the program will show the accurate result of the current strength in amperes. Formula how many watts in ampere

Attention: if the value of the size has fractional numberSo it needs to be inserted into the system through a point, and not a comma. Thus, to translate watts into amps with a power calculator allows you to read in a matter of time, you do not need to paint complex formulas and think about their re

schedule. Everything is simple and accessible!

Assembled in the same case.

Works from any source of direct current voltage from 12 to 24 volts. By connecting it, for example, with a 12V or 24V battery of any type, you will receive a mobile light source of fairly impressive strength.

Features

• Aluminum housing and tempered glass.
• High light output of the built-in 20 watt matrix.
• The wide angle of the beam of light is 120 degrees.
• Constant brightness in the range from 12 to 24 volts thanks to the built-in drive.
• Adjustable direction of light flux.

Appointment of LED spotlights 12 volts

• Portable source of large amounts of light.
• Security systems and emergency lighting.
• Non-volatile house.
• Special jobs and objects that do not allow high voltages.
• Installation in a boat or car.

How long will this searchlight work from a 12V battery?

The operating current will be 20W / 12V \u003d 1.7A. If, for example, to use a battery 7.2Ah, used in UPS, it turns out that the limit theoritical time will be 4 with a small hour.

Be careful when connected! You can accidentally allow a deep battery discharge, because The floodlight will not change the brightness as the battery discharge.

A warning: connecting to voltage above 26 volts is unacceptable and is a violation of warranty service conditions..

As I liked it so much like experimenting with LED lighting and redo the lamps that when I was offered to choose a product for testing, I could not resist and decided to try the factory manufacturer's LED.
Who is interested, the development of this idea under the cat.

As I gave to understand the annotation, the driver was provided for free, however, this does not have much importance in this case, since the purpose of any review is to show that in general the product represents and it is worth buying it or not. I promise to be not biased and show who is who, and the review of 20 watts drivers I have not met here yet.

So preamble, long ago began to notice that lamps with luminescent lamps made on the principle - the cheaper, the better, they have a characteristic defect, with frequent inclusion \\ off, they do not live long that the lamps are that the electronic ballasts themselves.
There are a pair of lamps with branded ballasts, Vossloh Schwabe and Philips, they work perfectly, but the price of them is usually somewhat overestimated, not to mention that high-quality phillips from the sale is gone. And if for the main lighting, I am afraid to apply LEDs, then for the minor I fully admit. One of these options will be described in the review.

But I will be consistent.
Driver arrived relatively quickly, about three weeks, I will not say for sure, since he was driving without a track. Packed was in a standard yellow envelope with a pupil film inside, the driver itself lay in the bag with a latch. However, given the monolithic design of the driver to break it difficult. In general, nothing is particularly interesting, packaging as packaging.

The length of the inlet cable and the output wires is the same, 27cm, output wires in silicone insulation, very soft (where to buy such a wire separately).
The size of the housing is 75x30x20mm, the length is taking into account the fastening paws - 90mm.

On the reverse side, the driver is flooded with a mass, similar to epoxy resin, disassembly and repair it is not subject to. And it's a pity, it would be interesting to try to make such a driver yourself or modify this one. But I wanted to IP65. In general, eat what they ordered and do not squab. :)

Driver characteristics declared by the manufacturer.

The main characteristics of the driver.
The number of LEDs 6-9.
Output voltage driver - 28-40 volts.
Current 600mA.
The seller indicates that 20-35V 600mAh 20W LED Driver (10 Series 2 Parallel)
A little not converge. Yes, and at least 6 LEDs will give a maximum of 24 volts, it does not converge here already by the manufacturer's data, but the experiments will show who is right.

The maximum that I managed to learn from what he is inside is that the capacity of the output capacitor 100mkf, and that is supposed.
By the way, the driver is turned on with a delay of about 0.5-0.7 seconds, a little annoying.

Then I started the test (it was curious himself).
At idle drive gives about 44 volts (just in case, the network entrance was 230 volts)

At first, I loaded it by 100 watt matrix (diagram 10x10), the voltage fell to 30.9 volt, the current was 0.57 amps, respectively, the power of 17.6 watts.

After that, I switched to tests with the load with which planned to use.
10 watt LEDs (3x3 scheme)

2 LEDs sequentially, voltage 19.04 V, current 0.58 A, power 11 watts.

3 LEDs sequentially, voltage 28.11 V, current 0.57 A, 10 watt power.

Well, finally, the test of what I planned to connect to it, 4 LED 10 watts sequentially, the voltage rose to 37.08 V, the current fell to 0.53 A, the capacity was 19.65 watts.

In fact, this is the maximum of this driver. I think that is pretty good.
The load is a bit abnormal, but the more interesting.

By the way, it is interesting that the LEDs are slightly different, three pieces are clearly visible crystals when working, and at the fourth (on the photo the right top), as if lubricated, the photo is less noticeable, why so, it is probably another party

For gourmet.

Voltage and current oscillograms.

Voltage pulsation with a frequency of 100 Hz, 3 LEDs, 0.2 volt scale.

Voltage ripples with a frequency of 100 Hz, 4 LEDs, 0.2 Volta scale

Pulsation current with a frequency of 100 Hz, 3 LEDs, a 0.1 volt scale, measurement on a resistor of 1 ohm.

Voltage pulsation RF, frequency of about 57 kHz, 3 LEDs, 0.2 volt scale.

On this, the experimental part is completed and it is time to go to the practical one.
As everyone understands, the driver lying on the shelf does not benefit, except if something supports :)
In one of the reviews, I reworked the Chinese production lamp. This situation is very similar, also a lamp, also Chinese production, and no less common than the previous one. And also the "ill-friendly" problem of unreliable work.

Description of the alteration of the lamp.

At the very beginning I wrote that there are good branded electronic ballasts for linear luminescent lamps. There is that they are, but for example, in such a lamp they will not trust. When I rewered a myself a few years ago on my own driver on the IR2520D, I barely stuck him in that size.
He did not meet the hopes for long work lamps, most likely the fault frequent inclusions / shutdowns, as in the first case, because it was decided to redo the lamp below the LEDs. Surely he is known to many, they produce them all who are not too lazy.

In general, I wanted to first remake under lED ribbon.As in the previous alteration, but decided to experiment with LEDs. By the way, in order to improve the security, I chose the version of the driver in the flooded housing, even in case of failure, it does not burn me something (and given the fact that the ceiling of plastic, the fire safety is quite critical).
10 watt LEDs work in a very lightweight mode, 5 watts on the assembly. I went for this for several reasons.
The efficiency and reliability of LEDs in this mode is noticeably higher.
I had LEDs.
I just wanted an experiment. :)

Since the LEDs are needed to cool with something, and the lamp housing is made of a slightly thick of the foil, the radiator was swallowed in the deposits of all iron.
His look is a little scary, it can be seen that he lay for quite a long time, maybe it was twisted where he was bought for something, but he approached very well.

Surely many radio amateurs, and not only, remember these standard holes for transistors of the type KT808, 805 or similar (Eh nostalgia, homemade amplifiers from the radio magazine, then radio engineering Tyu 020, how long ago it was).
But what was my surprise when, after fitting the LED, I found out that the installation site under such a transistor perfectly coincides with the dimensions of 10 watts of the LED, in addition, with a certain refinement, you can even use the native fastening of transistors. Since radiators under such transistors at one time were produced very much, then this information may be useful.

But all his time.
The radiator was washed and sawed in half, pass the fasteners on the reverse side, there is no point in them, only interfere.

So the lamp looks like after dismantling all extra.
A place to install radiators and drivers about 490x75mm (metal part of the lamp).

The radiators drilled the fastening holes for LEDs and the radiator mounting to the lamp, the thread M3 is sliced. For interest, I attached 2 LED with screws, as the manufacturer of LEDs was conceived, while the other 2 LEDs are fixed with washers from old KT808, as the Soviet engineer thought. By the way, for 10 watts of the LED, the distance between the mounting holes of 19mm (form a square with the sides of 19mm), suddenly it would come in handy, I didn't get this information on the Internet, I found out experimentally. Bashed with washers from trapsistors was more convenient, no drilling, thread cutting, etc.
Naturally KPT-8, where without it.

I mounted radiators and the driver, for the ground terminal there was even a place with a M4 carving on the radiator, very by the way. The driver did not screw the driver, glued to double-sided scotch, let's see if it fell off, instant. LEDs to radiators and radiators to the body screwed with screws with presss, computer enclosures are completed with such screws, very convenient.

Connected LEDs and Driver, first trial inclusion.

To be honest, I will not say that I liked it. But first things first.

He chased around the half of the watch. Measured the temperature. I think the device is a bit lying a little, on the touch more than 50. Probably due to poor thermal contact (although the sensor was pressed through the paste), the sensor is inserted into the former hole for the end of the transistor in the radiator.

Driver heated degrees to 60, remind, it works at its maximum power.

In general, I can say that shines brightly, more powerful than the previous 2x18 watt luminescent lamp and light normal, on the view of about as a halogen. Heating is just as normal, but not very much liked.
The plastic of the scatteer is too transparent, because of this it turns out uncomfortable when the lamp falls into the field of view, I think that for auxiliary premises (my lamp is installed in the storage room) is quite excellent, in the other options I would better redirect for LED tape (in general I wanted it initially ).
But my wife with my daughter liked a new lamp, for me, the most important thing. :)
I also want to try to add a matte film, I wonder how it will work out.
I tried to make a native scatteer matte, the alcohol does not take it, and from acetone it begins to be covered with very small cracks. If anyone knows more ways, tell me.

Summary.
The driver is quite normal, the current is slightly underestimated relative to the manufacturer declared, 550-580m vs. 600 declared by the manufacturer.
Heating even at maximum power, and even in actually internal mode is quite normal, the manufacturer claims Max 75 degrees, I have about 60 in the closed case, let's see how it will work.
Pulsations are small, "pencil" test passes, but you can add a container at the output, most likely decrease.
Slightly strains the inclusion with the delay, but it is already individually.

Buy or not, it costs his money or not, to solve you, in the review I tried to show his real characteristics as much as possible, I hope that it happened to me.
It seems nothing forgot. Special thanks to those who could finish to the end.

The driver was provided free of charge for testing and reviewing chinabuye.