Imac does not load what to do. What to do if your iMac won't turn on. Reinstalling the macOS operating system
How I lost my main working tool during the trip.
About a month ago I went to Moscow for a couple of weeks to visit my relatives. And this should not have affected all areas of my activity, because they are tied only to high-quality access to the network and my beloved MacBook Pro 13’’ ... There could be problems with the Internet, but the laptop has not let me down on any trip. I didn't even worry about him, and in vain.
On the second day in the capital, I was left without my main means of production.
My advice is to beware of summer beaches and shield Mac from soft drinks.
Can you guess what happened to him? The guys from MacPlus, who were advised by a local colleague, took this laptop for diagnostics, and at the same time shared information about the 5 most “popular” Mac defects. Further, based on our conversation, I will tell you what problems summer can bring with it (and not only).
1. Malfunction of the cooling system
Overheating is often feared, but what exactly happens with your laptop:
Despite the fact that the cooling system of any MacBook significantly outperforms most competitive PCsolutions, it still needs to be cleaned at least once a year. Otherwise, it gradually becomes clogged with dirt and dust, due to which its performance significantly decreases over time.
The result will not be long in coming - serious overheating and failure of elements motherboard inevitable.
Now you can often hear that preventive work - cleaning the cooling system and replacing thermal paste - you need to perform a minimum once a year.
Of course, this indicator is actually individual and depends on where and how long you work on your Mac... If, for example, a laptop has been turned off for 5-7 months (although this is difficult to imagine), the dust in it, most likely, will be much less than in the same, but actively used one.
The fact is that the dust gets into the cooling system through its own "fault". The fan, while extracting hot air from the case, at the same time sucks in dust from the environment.
Once again, we note that the indicators are individual - they depend on the working conditions, its duration and on the laptop model too. For example, a 15 "MacBook Pro will get dusty much faster than the same MacBook Air.
It is worth mentioning separately about as thermal paste. Some of its types can freely withstand up to 140 degrees, while others have rather low threshold values \u200b\u200bat which they cannot cope with the load. At the same time, all the required amount of heat is not diverted to the cooling system; some remains “on the microcircuits”. This increases the load, the temperature goes beyond safe limits, the resource in this mode is developed much faster.
In some cases, the dust itself not only contributes to heating, but can also become a conductor of current (of course, this does not happen often, but it is still real).
Thermal paste is also not so simple: it does not always dry out in a year. It all depends on what you are doing: permanent work in Final Cut or playing at Call of duty will significantly speed up the process, and gentle use, on the contrary, will delay the problem.
But you shouldn't deviate from the rule: at least once a yearshow your Mac to a specialist. If it is clean, they will tell you about it directly. If cleaning is needed, at first the laptop will simply turn off during operation or slow down, but it is definitely not worth waiting for it to refuse to turn on even after cooling down.
You can remove the cover and look at the state of the device in a few minutes, but repairing devices that have already failed is much more difficult. And more expensive.
2. Troubles with charging or power supply
It's not that simple, there are several options.
The battery "died"
There are two equal options here. Either the battery has worn out and is not suitable for further use, or for some reason it was simply blocked by charge controller... Of course, this won't turn on the MacBook.
There are many publications on this issue. We'll just reiterate the obvious: Mac batteries are very durable, but not permanent, and sooner or later they have to be replaced.
Practice shows that it always happens unexpectedly. Of course, various utilities can now monitor the state of the battery, and the system itself does this. But there is always the possibility that the battery will fail without apparent reasons: long-standing and already forgotten contact with moisture, unnoticed overheating or voltage drop, "fault" of poor quality charger.
In some cases, a failed attempt to charge your Mac may be recognized by the battery controller as physical problem. In this case, part of the circuit is specially disabled - this is a protective mechanism. The battery cells themselves may be fine, but the battery controller considers it "dead" or dangerous to the MacBook.
By and large, in such cases, repair is possible, but it implies transferring the board with the controller from the donor battery to the repaired one and their "coordination" using the programmer. This is not possible for all battery models, but in cases where it is realistic, the repair process is comparable in cost to replacing the entire battery. And the latter, of course, is much more reliable.
There are problems with the power connector
In a particularly hardcore mode of laptop operation MagSafe can fail for several reasons - the connector contacts are oxidized, covered with dirt or worn out. Eventually macBook battery discharges to zero and the laptop does not turn on without recharging.
It's not uncommon to have a faulty MagSafe. It can occur in almost any model, but most often it happens with Unibody models from 2008-2012. Now such Macs are no longer available, but they are used quite actively. Taking into account the age of even the "freshest" copy of 2012, during maintenance work, you have to clean not only the cooling system, but also the surface of the connectors.
The MagSafe connector is always open, and on the contact pad dust settles... It somewhat impairs the quality of the electrical connection, and frequent connections leads wear out. A tenth of a millimeter is often sufficient to lose contact.
With frequent loss of contact, the MagSafe board begins to heat up, the battery may fail (the system perceives this as frequent connection / disconnection of the charger), and then the motherboard itself.
So you need to use, of course, high-quality PSUs. And keep the Mac itself clean.
"Covered" power supply
Another reason for the inability to charge the MacBook is a non-working power supply that could fail for a number of different reasons: from the same voltage drops to common wear and tear.
At the same time, a "working" Mac may well recognize such a block. Charging performance degrades over time. They are quite enough for the system to “see” the power supply unit and show the status “battery is charging”, but a switched off and completely dead laptop cannot be charged with such a unit.
The situation is the same as when charging MacBook Pro 15 ″ block from Air... The process is going on, but much more slowly, and if the battery has completely sat down or "went into protection", a current of sufficient power is needed.
The block must be selected carefully. It's not only the quality of the performance (the original or the factory copy has very good protection against various emergency situations), but also in accordance with the parameters - the power and current of the PSU must meet the requirements of the laptop.
You can use a more powerful charger - it is safe, but a weak one (as mentioned above) is not recommended. In most cases, the Mac will simply charge slowly (for example, if it is turned off and is not consuming power itself).
If you are working on a laptop connected to such a low-power unit, then the system thinks that it is charging, although in fact it is discharging, because the battery receives less from the power supply during charging than it consumes, and the indication on the battery icon will not tell you about it. The result is battery wear and failure.
3. Serious voltage drop
Burned elements of the motherboard
The worst thing that can happen during a voltage drop is the failure of the motherboard elements. He assumes its complete replacement or expensive MacBook repair.
Such cases are always the most difficult. The whole chain or just one single element "burns out". And the result is known - Mac does not show signs of life. With devices that have survived a voltage drop, you need to be especially careful - problems can be ambiguous, they do not appear immediately.
For example, you have a completely serviceable Macbut discrete graphics don't work or turn on Wi-Fi, although both the module and the antennas are working.
The answer is not always on the surface, but restoration is as real as, for example, when replacing hard disk or other basic repairs. As a rule, such problems do not affect the durability of devices. And if they were eliminated, then Mac will work without problem.
Most often, "watch chains" suffer - this is the name of the sections that are always under voltage, albeit small. In the risk zone there are also "power" elements operating under high currents.
The battery is "covered"
Due to the large voltage drop, the MacBook battery usually goes into a protection state, but it may also "die" completely. This has already been discussed above.
"Died" power supply
A voltage drop very often causes the "death" of a power supply, which fails in whole or in part.
It is safer to replace such a block, because if he saved Mac - it's worth it.
4. Large and continuous load
Burnt out chipset or video chip
MacBook can cope with a very large and prolonged load, but only with a working cooling system, which is regularly cleaned. Otherwise, he will overheat greatly, which will become the cause of his “death”.
More precisely, not only the chips themselves can fail, but also the "strapping" - auxiliary elements that distribute power to the microcircuits.
Video chip (aka graphics processor) is the main element, the "heart" of the video card. In modern Mac this chip is on the motherboard.
The chipset is also part of the motherboard, and in some models it also includes a GPU. Plus, the microcircuit performs many other important functions. But even if all the chips "survived", the problem can still appear.
Overheating may break contact BGA- the leads of the crystal itself and the pads on the chip substrate (a mirror square and a square made of textolite with elements soldered onto it).
Even more often and even in the overwhelming majority of cases, the crystal lattice itself fails. The temperature changes its structure, and the chip must be replaced. In this case, the problem can be temporarily solved by the thermal shrinkage of the chip, which allows partially restoring the structure of the crystal lattice or returning the crystal-substrate contact.
But, as a rule, when the graphics fail, the chip needs to be replaced with a new one, and the technique itself serves more for diagnostic purposes.
The chip almost always fails during overloads, especially long-term ones. There are many options here: you can "burn" the Mac in an addictive gameplay, leave it overnight to edit a video or render a large project.
A clean cooling system will help here, but it's not all-powerful either. Especially difficult Mac cope with congestion in Windows, at least previous versions (maybe also because there are much more demanding games for this operating system than for OS X).
5. The device was filled with liquid
Keyboard refused
The keyboard is the first thing that suffers when it hits MacBook liquids. In this case, it can fail completely or partially. If the power button fails, the laptop simply won't turn on. Interestingly, this may not happen immediately, but long after the incident.
Therefore, it is cheaper and more reliable to strictly follow the rule: Filled the MacBook - go to the service center, even if everything is fine, especially since the diagnostics can be done for free in any case.
The keyboard is one of the most vulnerable places in Mac... It is easiest to fill it. Often it dries up and works, but even then it is at risk and may one day suddenly fail.
The fact is that the keyboard itself has a flexible transparent backing, on which the tracks for each key are laid. It is they who are oxidized. Technically, the keyboard can be repaired, but considering the labor costs, such work will cost almost like a replacement for a new one.
Often the keyboard backlight "saves" everything else - a small amount of moisture, penetrating through the keyboard, is delayed by the backlight (it is glued to the keyboard quite tightly and is supplied with a thick film on the back). This is exactly what happened with my Mac.
Short circuit on the motherboard
If liquid gets on the motherboard, it can happen immediately or after a while short circuit... All the fault is the oxidation of contacts.
Approximately 40-50% of devices with which they are asked for repair are flooded or have been flooded at some time. Once again, let's pay attention to what has already become a well-known fact: contact with moisture will not pass without leaving a trace for almost any device, it doesn't matter Mac this, iPad or iPhone.
Oxidation almost always happens very quickly, especially if you do not physically disconnect the battery from the motherboard. It is simply necessary to do this, but most owners modern technology hardly have a screwdriver with such a favorite Pentalobe, which is now used in almost all new Mac.
Just turning off the laptop is not enough, while power is still supplied to the board, and the liquid that gets on it acts as an electrolyte. It turns out a homemade battery - the electrolysis reaction starts, its products appear on conductive elements and tracks, and especially small components can be completely destroyed in the process.
Therefore, if you have a suspicion, or you know for sure that water got inside - MacBook repair should not be postponed. At least you need to check the condition. Again, it's better to play it safe, and contact as soon as possible when the damage is still small, because the further - the more difficult it is to bring the Mac back to life.
Sometimes you have to restore the tracks themselves. Particularly difficult is the moisture under the microcircuits. They are not attached to the board hermetically, and the microscopic gap is enough for water to get there.
Cleaning in an ultrasonic bath in industrial alcohol solves two problems at once - from hard-to-reach places moisture leaves (water is heavier than pure alcohol), and ultrasound allows you to remove oxides from the surface.
It is also worth noting here that water itself is not so dangerous for electronics, but from experience, almost everything that gets into Mac - aggressive media - soda, coffee, sweet tea, alcohol and so on. If the board is disconnected from the battery and block, electrolysis proceeds much more slowly, but in practice the battery is almost always connected.
And we will repeat again. Even if immediately after the incident with your computer everything is in order (at first glance), the equipment is still worth inspecting, because the problem may appear much later, when you have already forgotten about what happened. And, as practice shows, it is much more difficult (and generally not always possible) to restore such laptops.
All's well that ends well - that's for sure
As it turned out, without my knowledge MacBook Proflooded with something like "Mojito" summer on the beach almost a year ago. The liquid was hastily wiped off the case, but it got inside. In the end, the keyboard contacts oxidized, and the power button simply did not work. The keyboard was completely replaced and the laptop came to life. It's good that the cocktail didn't make it to the motherboard.
While I was drinking coffee and chatting with MacPlus specialists, they managed to check the laptop for other problems that were not identified. I got off with a little blood.
How has your Mac ever let you down?
P.S .: for whom everything is bad, we suggest replacing the battery ( 3.60 out of 5, rated: 5 )
If, after turning on your iMac, it passes the test (an apple appears, the welcome sound turns on and the loading indicator starts spinning), but cannot boot to the end, then the reason is most likely in the operating system. In this case, the iMac won't boot due to software glitches.
Alternatively, you can roll back the system with Time machine, or load into " safe mode"Using the Command + V keys, and from this mode try to restore the system.
Also check your DVD drive for any bootable or system drives that might interfere with boot. operating system... The reason the iMac won't boot may be because boot disk in a drive that prevents the computer from booting.
Similar to the previous point, check that there are no flash drives in the USB ports, which can also prevent the computer from booting.
If such solutions do not work, then the operating system problems can be solved by reinstalling it. Also, our wizards will help you with the shutdown problem. If your iMac won't turn off, just call our service and we'll help you.
For more detailed advice on issues of interest to you when your iMac does not boot - call our service center.
Best regards, team service center Notex.
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10 questions to “ iMac won't turn on. iMac won't boot. IMac won't turn off. What to do?”
- Andrei
I have imac21, it does not load when turned on until the end, the progress bar is on 2/3 and does not move further, what to do
- Oleg
iMac turns off when turned on. The bar status bar reaches about half and the computer goes out. Can you tell me what you can do?
- petro
Hi, I need help in my Mac 21 starts up to half and is cut down and the same thing is done again, I checked the hard disk on another computer, it is good on my computer, but I don't know what could be
- Rustam
Good day. iMac does not turn on the first time, if it turns on then immediately turns off what could be the reason?
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Apple is renowned for its quality, modern and reliable products. But, any product created by human hands is not insured against breakdowns. And the popular all-in-one iMac is no exception. If, by pressing the start button, you find that the computer has stopped turning on or is not working correctly, then there may be several reasons for such a problem.
The main reasons that the computer does not boot or does not work at all may be: problems with the software, power supply of the aimak, problems with external devices, RAM, or overheating of the device due to a clogged air conditioning system.
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iMacIn this case, first check its electrical connection. Make sure there is no problem with the outlet. Is the device plugged in correctly? Check the power cord and network adapter for malfunctions (broken cord, burnt adapter, etc.). If everything is in working order, you should additionally do the following:
1. Disconnect all external devices (eg printer, mouse, disk drive).
2. Unplug the power cord and wait 10-15 seconds.
3. Connect the cord while holding the power (power) button.
4. Release the button and press it again.
Computer still won't start? Try resetting all options (back to default settings).
If all of the above measures have not changed anything, it's time to contact a specialist.
This problem is caused by software, video card, or display issues. To fix the problem, reinstall the operating system or have the defective parts replaced at a service center.
White screen aimak - what to do
If the device started working, but it still stuck white screen it doesn't work. Check all connected external devices and the presence of a disc in the drive.
The hang may be caused by hDD... Also one of the probable reasons - rAM... In this case, loading the system recovery program from a disk or flash drive helps. If these measures did not help, it is necessary to diagnose the RAM for problems.
Black or gray screen
After pressing the power on, the aimak screen remains black. So the problem with motherboard, in particular northern and south bridge, or a video card. One of the reasons for such problems may be bad job cooling system - dust or dirt has accumulated. A gray screen can indicate a software problem (no required software or software incompatibility).
Contact the service center
An incorrect determination of the causes of malfunctions and their subsequent self-elimination can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, often after self-repair.
Our service is equipped with all the necessary equipment to accurately diagnose all Apple products. Only after determining the reason, the specialists of the center begin work. All our masters have vast experience in repairing all types of devices from this popular company.
And rest assured that we will do our job on high level and in the shortest possible time. You will not have to regret that you have chosen us, because your aimak will work properly and without any problems!
Monoblock personal Computer Apple's iMac has long established itself in the electronics market as one of the most reliable and comfortable devices to use. But even with such branded equipment, problems occur that require the intervention of specialists. For example, if your iMac stops turning on, you will most likely need help from a wizard. But, first you can try to deal with the problem yourself.
So, the iMac candy bar did not respond to your pressing the "On" button, that is, the power indicator light did not light up, the cooler did not work, and the usual melodic boot sounds did not sound. What to do?
The first step is to check the power cable of your candy bar and the outlet where it is connected (for this purpose, you can use any other electrical device or a special indicator screwdriver). After checking the power outlet, check to see if the cable is plugged into the power supply and the power supply (power supply or adapter) in turn to the port on your iMac.
The second step is to disconnect the cables of all external devices from the monoblock (hub, printer, and others), and then reset all settings of the sensor or control and power regulator of the monoblock. This process consists of the following actions:
- Disconnect all cables, including the power cord from the all-in-one iMac.
- Pause for ten seconds.
- Plug in the power cord and at the same time hold down the power button on your iMac, located on the back of your device.
- After releasing the power button, press the On button.
If your iMac still won't turn on after these manipulations, you should try plugging in a different power cord. The most common reason for its failure to work is precisely the failure of this monoblock component.
If the new cord did not give positive results, you need to turn to the adapter and try to replace it with another one. Maybe the cause of the problem is in him.
When the new adapter did not help, you cannot do without the qualified help of specialists. In our service center iFix in Kiev, we guarantee the elimination of any breakdowns of Apple branded equipment.
We'll make a quick and high-quality diagnosis of your Apple iMac and fix any issues. Replacing the power supply, motherboard elements that could "burn out" as a result of extreme loads or on-network voltage surges, receive mechanical damage as a result of shocks or drops of the monoblock, moisture ingress, and so on. Whatever the cause of the breakdown, our highly trained technicians will quickly and with a quality guarantee restore your iMac to work. We work exclusively with branded equipment, and we eliminate any breakdowns only with the help of branded special equipment.
We are waiting for you in our iFix service center every day, without breaks and weekends.
What could be more unpleasant than a situation when, for no reason at all, at the most inopportune moment, the iMac does not turn on? In our age of dependence on computers, perhaps there is little. This unpleasant situation can be prevented. It is necessary to periodically clean the iMac from dust (this can be done at any service center specializing in post-warranty service for Apple products) and connect a voltage regulator (or at least a surge protector).
If this happens, don't rush to take your iMac to a service center. In some cases, you can fix the problem yourself.
If your iMac turns on (you hear a welcome sound, your iMac hums like it’s running) but cannot start to the end, you are experiencing problems. software... Try to use time program Machine or boot into Safe Mode. Check your DVD drive, it may contain a disc that is preventing the system from starting. If none of these methods proved to be effective, then reinstalling the operating system is inevitable.
If the iMac does not turn on at all, first make sure that the problem is not in the outlet or in the cable (especially if there was a power surge - in this case, the power supply could also burn out). Otherwise, a breakdown occurred inside the monoblock. The hard drive or RAM may have failed. A more serious problem is also possible. In any case, it will not be possible to determine and even more so to eliminate it on your own. You need professional help.
Service centers, especially those that specialize in aimags, often bring monoblocks with the problem "iMac does not turn on". In such workshops, specialists in a matter of minutes often carry out diagnostics free of charge and identify the cause of the breakdown.
Approach the choice of a service center thoroughly. Stop your choice on those that have basic spare parts in their warehouse. In this case, the iMac will be repaired as soon as possible, and you will not have to part with your computer for a long time. When replacing spare parts, make sure they are original and not Chinese fakes. Otherwise, after a while you will have to go to the workshop again.
Keep an eye on your iMac, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of its breakdown. If you notice that something is wrong with it (it began to hum louder, hang up, suddenly turn off), then hurry up to show it to the professionals right away. This way, you can prevent serious damage and never say "my iMac won't turn on".
What to do if Wi-Fi doesn't work? Easy solution to the problem
How do you find and fix the problem? What is preventing the adapter from working properly? Why isn't Wi-Fi working on my laptop?
If, after all, your iMac is broken. You can always call a taxi http://taxi-dring.ru and take your digital equipment to the workshop for repair.
